The potential for climbing routes around Quoc Oai seems promising for a crag so close to the city.  However, the possible lines are often heterogeneous, the rock is dirty, and the local authorities aren't the friendliest bunch.  Bouldering does not bother anybody, and it would be unfortunate to lose that possibility if the People’s Committee decided to kick us out.  Despite all this, however, we expect to open new routes around here soon.

How to get there

Hanoi to Quoc Oai : about 17 km, 30 min.
The fastest and easiest way to get to these cliffs is to take a motorbike from Hanoi. 
Heading out of Hanoi towards the south-west, take the large thoroughfare Tran Duy Hung, then the Hoa Lac road for about twenty kilometers.  Pass a set of toll booths (free for motorbikes), and then take the first left about 50 m later.  On this small road (heading south, so perpendicular to the Hanoi-Hoa Lac route), take the first right possible.  This is a narrow lane, partly paved, partly cobble-stone and partly dirt, with two small pillars at the entrance that prevent cars from entering.  It heads between homes in the village towards the escarpment.  Stop when you are in front of the entrance to the large cave that opens into the mountain; you will see the tomb of an honored soldier. 
Go to the page "Bouldering Info - Quoc Oai" for more information on the set up of bouldering routes inside the cave. 
Warning: Vietnamese limestone is fragile, and routes are only lightly used.  Be careful of rock-falls, and consider wearing a helmet.  An toan la ban (safety is your friend) 

Bolted route info - Quoc Oai

"Pond and Temple" side of the mountain / cave
This cliff is situated to your left if you arrive by the dirt path described below.  The easiest access is to walk through the cave to the "pond and temple" side of the mountain - once you are through the cave, head left along a path past a large boulder. The cliff will be about 30 meters in front of you. 
Sport route 1, 6a
Jump start (or begin to the left if you drunk too many beers last night); be careful - the first bolt is relatively high.  Follow the slight overhang as it moves to the right into a depression where you can stand.  Climb the narrow face to the left to a nice overhang just below the anchor.

Sport route 2, 6b
This route took place a few meters on the left to the 6a. Easy start and high first bolt. After the 1st bolt, traverse slightly to your left and up to get a hole/jug. Then the crux: good crimps, and two mono/bi-finger pockets. After this fingery warm-up, the end is easier. Climb straight up with the huge black tufa on your left. The anchor is in a cave, careful when you get there, the rock is weak at the bottom of the cave and will likely dislodge bits of rock and dirt – belayer beware.  There is a slightly-harder alternate start to this route: simply begin directly below the first bolt and work up through small crimps to gain the first bolt. Consider pre-clipping that first bolt as it’s a big fall if you miss the first clip.

Inside the mountain / cave

Trad route, 4a
The cave is pierced by two openings that allow sunlight in (or the eye of God, depending on one's imagination).   In the main chamber (the one which contains boulder problems 7-10 as described in the Quoc Oai bouldering section), climb the most straightforward route and exit by the opening.  Warning: unstable boulder at the top. 

Top Rope, 6b
To the left of the above route, there is a belay stance installed for a top rope.  Because this is in the interior of the cave, the rock is dirty as it is never cleaned by the rain. 

Along the dirt track (the one that follows the canal and along which you have to drive to get to the cave entrance and the tomb of the soldier):

Trad route, 4b
Belay against a tree.  Starting from this belay, it is possible to climb the left slab on a top rope.

Map