How to get there ? What is generally called Ha Long bay actually comprises of two bays, Ha Long bay and Lang Ha bay, which are administratively linked to different provinces (hence the difficulty to get official permits)...

In order to sail these bays, you need a boat, which can be found either in Bay Chay (Ha Long City) or in Cat Ba. The first option is more convenient if you want to reach islands located on the north of the bay.
Ha Long city is overcrowded with tour groups (several thousands of people a day) : we strongly advise you to avoid this city. The wisest choice is to go to Cat Ba, (Ha Long bay's main island, pop. 8000), not only to avoid the seething masses, but also to enjoy climbing in Butterfly Valley, a cliff recently equipped by Slopony. Besides, prices are far less expensive.

How to rent a boat

Contact Mr Lap (0912 453 257) in advance and ask him for some kayaks and/or a rowboat to reach the base of the rock face. His boats are nice and simple (no showers, no individual cabin), the food is OK. The boats can take up to 8-10 people. Prices may vary according to the season. With inflation and the strong increase of gas price, it’s definitely more expensive than 1 or 2 years ago. Example of price including one night on the boat, dinner, two lunches, one breakfast, kayaks and rowboat rental for 8 people : about 280 USD (i.e. 35 USD /each). For two people : 140 USD.
The boatmen has taken us climbing often and thus knows some nice DWS walls.
Careful with your belongings at night, as one-eyed Tonkinese pirates hang around the bay...

From Hanoi to Cat ba

Go to the Giap Bat bus station (In Vietnamese: ben xe (bus station) Giap Bat), located on Giai Phong street, south Hanoi. Catch a green minibus  (Mai Linh buslines) headed for Haiphong : 50 000 VND, departing every 20 minutes from early  morning, duration: about 2 hours.
At Haiphong terminus, in Cu Chinh Lan street, turn left at the exit of the station until you reach the main harbour for speedboats. The first ones for Cat Ba leave at 8.40 and 9.00 am. There are several companies, schedules may vary. 100 000 VND, one-hour crossing. Total trip duration : 3-4 hours.

Useful places in Cat Ba :

- Noble house, Slopony office on the main street, right in front of the Cat ba speedboats harbour;
- Hoang Y, n°195 on the main road, for its food, especially seafood;

Be careful, the last speedboats heading back to Haiphong are at 3 pm from the main harbour of Cat Ba town and 4 pm from the secondary harbour of Cai Vieng (on the opposite side of the island). If you miss the last speedboat, you’ll have to spend an extra night - which is the worse thing in the world.

"My ambition was to become the best climber and I never did. I think that goal was a wrong goal. A better one is to put more emphasis on enjoyment and on getting a rounded experience and on things like friendship, rather than on sheer achievement."
Royal Robbins